Heidelberg

For starters, I feel very lucky to be able to resurrect this blog post at all. Travel sparks my imagination and keeps me going, and the countdown to our trip is all that sustained me during this year!

We arrived in Frankfurt after a very long, very cramped flight. I'm always so much more optimistic about long-haul flights at the start, while my memory is bad...
  We caught the train to Heidelberg where my grandfather picked us up. Weather cold, but not shockingly so. Heidelberg beautiful as always, the ruins of the old castle overlooking the winding Neckar river, with the postcard-perfect houses nestled in to the valley hills. Despite my recollections of living here as a baby being practically non-existent, it still feels like home. Could the sentiment be genetically inherited from my parents, or is home wherever you find family?
  It felt a little strange to not be staying with Oma and Opa, for my entire life of visits I have been quartered in the same bedroom upstairs, now currently occupied by my uncle. We stayed next door at a little guest house, where there was more room for the four of us and our accoutrement to spread out. Walking in the door of my grandparents flat after we had settled in, even Harry commented that the smell was incredibly familiar. This wonderful mix of coffee and spices and homemade jam, which upon consideration are probably the essentials that fuel the inhabitants!
  We were given the usual welcome, which means being plied with food and alcohol and more food and more alcohol. We rolled back to ours and immediately fell asleep.

The next day dawned (and yes, it was witnessed - jet lag is a bitch) clear and cold. We breakfasted with Oma and Opa, fresh rolls, butter and homemade jams, cured meats and cheeses... I think we all rediscovered a love for breakfast. Never has butter on bread tasted so good.

  We rugged up and headed out of doors. First stop, the Alte Brücke (old bridge). I wanted Adam and Michaela to experience this sight of Heidelberg first. The bridge itself, older than colonised Australia, stretching away to the impressive gate that used to guard the walls to the city, overshadowed by the castle.

Adam has his eyes closed here, but we'll forgive him. We had a few hours to wander around Heidelberg before we had to move on. We decided to take the Bergbahn (funicular) up to the highest point, called Königstuhl. My dad used to drive these! 

The view from the top was stunning, so high up and overlooking the whole valley. Excellent photo op!

We trundled back down to Heidelberg shortly thereafter, and wandered down the Hauptstraße (main street) in search of food. We were short on time, which means only one thing - Döner! These little beauties leave Australian kebabs in the red dirt. Harry's joy was palpable, but they were enjoyed all around. 

We headed off to Dossenheim then, to meet Adam's friend of the family, Barbara. She showed us a lovely time at her flat, all glass windows overlooking a wonderful view, having afternoon tea in the fading afternoon light. The sun sets so early here, around 4:30! Back to Heidelberg to experience the Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market), and oh! what an experience that was!

No one does Christmas like the Germans. Every inch of the town is covered in lights, every store front is decorated. No house is without a shining star in the window, and every few hundred meters a towering tree strung with lights illuminates your path. Imagine if you will, the tiny picturesque wooden huts, selling home made wares and Christmas gifts. It smells like Glühwein (mulled wine) and roasted almonds, chargrilled wurst and gingerbread hearts. We had a lovely few hours wandering around the lower markets, and then took the Bergbahn up to the castle to see the market up there. 

The next day was rainy and foggy, but only added to the wintry moodiness of Heidelberg. We headed up to the Schloss (castle) to explore its ruins. Despite the little that's left of it, it is still an impressive structure. While Harry and I have been there a few times, I never tire of wandering around the grounds and gardens, and the view of the city below. Pictures will do better than words in this instance:

We ate dinner with Oma and Opa, and then Harry and I headed up the hill to visit my great aunt and uncle. More food. More alcohol. We walked back, tired and bloated, and collapsed into bed.

Thursday. To avoid Heidelberg fatigue, we took the train to Mannheim. While the Christmas market was larger and better stocked, Mannheim is a very industrial-looking city, and lacks the spirit and feel of it's prettier southern sister. We enjoyed wandering around, sampling the traditional market foods and wandering the shops, picking up some essentials in the local department store.

For dinner we returned to Heidelberg, and traversed the winding streets looking for our Holy Grail - the Schnitzelbank restaurant. I had discovered this place a few weeks earlier on TripAdvisor, the number one recommendation for the area. In the lead up to the trip, most of us had been staring at pictures of snowy scenes and famous sights we would visit, in order to motivate us in the last weeks of work. Meanwhile, Harry would google pictures of Schnitzelbank's meals and dream of his menu choices. It did not disappoint. Communal eating in a traditional style, and food filled with cream and mushrooms and schnitzels and beer. Bliss.

Aufweidersehn, Heidelberg. Next up, Prague!